April 9, 2003sgtsarge; Bingo! That sure would have saved me a lot of typing...
April 9, 2003Ok, well, we're one step closer. I decided to follow where the terminals lead to.. and the ground just leads to the chassis, and the other end leads to the fuse box under the hood. So I hooked it up accordingly. My lights came on and I finished up the job. I go inside my truck and notice that my stereo illumination is on. So I press the eject button. The flip down flips down and nothing happens. The lights work. I start the truck, the lights still work, but the stereo is in its little suspended animation state. Since I was losing daylight, I just disconnected the power leads from the + source. This is how I have it hooked up.
All negatives going to the chassis and both positives, the general + and the third wire on my switch, going to the positive battery terminal (well, the fuse box, but it still gets there, never the less). I wanted the lights to work regardless of if my hi/low were on, so I didnt wire it in to one of their respective power lines. It almost seems like I'm screwing up/shorting the ignition positive (isnt that how my stereo is hooked up, that extra + source?). I'm not sure. Any ideas?
BTW, the lights look GREAT with my SilverStars and my generic white 885 fogs...
April 10, 2003Ok here we go guys.. enjoy a good laugh.. I did this real quick
Ok, I forgot to add one more ground wire that is labeled the relay ground, and that goes from the Relay(#7) to the chassis (#2)
1. The battery (duh)
2. A grounded bolt in the chassis
3. The first bolt that the positive terminal branches off to (it of course goes to the alt. as well, but I left that out for sake of room)
4. Some kind of Fuse
5. Fuse box
6. The switch
7. The relay
8. The lights, (duh)
9. The power wire for the switch (this is the one they say to splice in with your hi beams (for driving lights).
I tried to wire them directly to the battery, but I could never get the terminal back on because the way the terminal is covered with plastic.
April 10, 2003I got it all working, I had to put both positive leads after the fuse(#4). Dont know why.. oh well... it works.. woo! pics coming soon..
April 17, 2003You need two 12v lines because one is used to send juice to the driving lights themselves (which is a high current draw), as well as a 12v input that's used to "energize" the relay so it knows when it could be used (a low current draw). I say "could be" because the driving lights won't activate unless the dashboard switch is on, it's just used to energize the relay. Technically, that low current line should be wired to your high beams 12v supply, which means the driving lights will only be useable when your brights are on.
When you wire fog lights your supposed to hook the low current wire to the headlights 12v supply, so when the headlights come on the relay gets energized. That also means that when you turn on your brights the fog lights go off (since the headlights go out when your high beams are on). However, when I wire fog lights I hook the low current wire to the parking lights, so I can basically use my fogs when I want to. That has helped me out many times.
April 22, 2003check out my lights gallery. I took some quick pics of my PIAA 60xts... the pics arent that good. The flash on my digital cam shut off because it was too bright.... so I gotta over ride that so you can see more of the truck.. I'll have more pics in a day or so...