October 10, 2011alright, so i`m looking for other peoples experience and input. but basically whats going thru my head is on the 88-98 chevy`s the max tire size is 285/75/16 which translates to 33/11.5s so, that in mind i`m thinking of picking up a set of hummer rims with 35s on em. (and a set of 37s to go with too.) now, i know i cant afford a 4 or 6 inch lift. however i did find a 2 inch suspension for around 300 with shocks. So what i`m thinking is if it really gives me 2 inches, or even 1 and a half, that should be plenty to fit in 35s, with the possibility of rubbing, which would lead me to cutting the fenders. which doesn`t bother me. body lifts are out of the question due to my having the diesel, and the turbo being in the fender with a body lift. (but if someone knows a work around, i`m all ears) So basically, if 33s fit stock, and a 2 inch lift gives me an inch and a half atleast, that would give me the room i need assuming the tires aren`t 12.5 or 13 inches wide. 11.5s or 12s, i think will work, 12s might need cutting, 12.5s definitely will. am i wrong in this train of thought? also does anyone have the "2 inch suspension lfit" from Tuff country whihc is just new torque keys and an add a leaf? thanks all
Forums : Tires & Wheels : thinking out loud (1322 Views)
October 11, 2011the thing you need to watch is the backspacing of the wheels
they may either make the tire hit the frame or the wheel well itself even after cutting the fenders and bumper
why would the body lift be out
if your willing tocut up the fenders why not trim up the inner fender wheels and make a filler panel to protect the turbo
October 11, 2011a body lift would put the turbo inside the wheel well. meaning when i get articulation, or hit a bump, tire hits turbo. not really an ideal situation. i`m out of town atm, but i want to measure spacing when i get back in town. If it`ll only go into the wheel well an inch or so, i might be willing to take the risk, or take a look to see about re-locating it. the offset on the rims i`m not sure about, they are stock hummer h2 rims, (anyone know the offset?) when i get in town i am going to go to town on measuring stuff and figuring it out, and looking at the rims and tires that are for sale and measure and line everything out while i am looking at the tires.
October 12, 2011don`t waste your time with a stupid 2 inch lift or a body lift. Do it right and get a true 4 or 6 inch lift. You don`t wanna half do it just to fit a certain size tires. Just wait a couple more months, save your money and buy a real lift.
O BTW no 88-98 chevy pick-up has wheel articulation what-so-ever. lol they just fool you into thinking the front wheels move up and down.
October 12, 2011@98, i would do it that way, (and would really prefer to) but i need tires, and this tires+rims are worth alot more than what the guy is asking, if his add is true. And considering the differences in price, i think i would go for the 6 inch lift, over the 4 inch. its not that much mroe expensive, and worth it. When i get back from the job i am on now, i am going to go through my finances, if i can afford a bigger lift, i`ll go for it, until than i am willing to settle on a 2 inch for now, and than get a 4 or 6 inch lift down the road. The other thing about my truck, is i do use it as a work truck, so the add-a-leaf will be nice, and the small lift will be nice for loading and unloading. crew cab long boxes aren`t exactly known for trailing. trailering, yes, but not trailing. lol. So short of someone offering up a 4 or 6 inch lift for well under a grand, or knows where to get one, i am going to stick with the 2 inch to start with.
October 12, 2011damn didn`t think about the tire flexing into the turbo
have you thought about using fiberglass baja style fenders
that would get you the clearence you need without the lift
October 12, 2011i am doing this on a budget, so after purchase price plus shipping, plus paint, i don`t think they would be worth it. however i was doing some more reading, and other people have gotten away with the body lifts. I`m about 90% sure i`m gunna get the 2 inch suspension, but i really want to get home and measure the tires, and the turbo clearances. if i could get the 2 inch suspension, and a 3 inch body, i`d be more than happy with the results since i will mostly be for looks, it sounds like 3 inch mounts are still very reliable when it coems to bearing weight. and a 2 inch suspension won`t mess up my ability to tow. so i could get up 5 inches, without messing up my work truck capabilities.
October 12, 2011Only thing is about that lift you posted, is its pointless. New keys won`t gain you anymore lift than what you could get from your factory keys.
If you look at your front-end you will notice that there are bump stops under the upper control arms. By maxing out your front keys (turning your bolts all the way in,) you can raise the front end enough to rest the control arm on that stop. This is all the further the front end will go up, the keys are bogas advertisement.
Your cheapest way to get those tires fitted under there is gonna be too buy a 3inch body lift and be done. Just lke you said let them clear themselves them cut what won`t clear (front bumper.) Then once enough money is earned, buy the 6inch and sell the 3 inch body.
October 13, 2011my understanding is that it doesn`t replaces the factory keys with a set just like `em. the new ones are supposed to re-index the factory torque arms. and that is where the extra space comes from. so pretty much this "lift kit" is really a front leveling kit and an add-a-leaf in the rear to keep the factory rake. here is a link to the lift i`m looking at
October 13, 2011the only difference between tightening the factory keys and using the indexing keys is that the ride may stiffen up a bit
if it was me i would save myself the couple hundred from the keys and just pay for the alignment after the factory key adjustment and pocket the rest for a 6" lift