June 3, 2005is there anyway to paint without getting orange peel? like with a really good gun? i know you can remove orange peel by wet block sanding lightly and then buffing, but it would be nice to have a perfect paint job the first time. what professional guns does everyone recommend?
June 3, 2005email i believe his name is xltina he is a body and paint man who gives great advice for painting and such
June 3, 2005Steve (XLTina) is an incredible resource. To the best of my knowledge - which runs pretty shallow - there is no such thing as perfection without sanding.
June 3, 2005Lots of practice. My boss is spraying with a 20 year old gun and lays down some pretty clear. I have a $600 SATA and I am getting the hang of putting down a slick paint job. Keep practicing.
June 3, 2005Its lots and lots of experience, prep, good conditions and good materials. Any top show car or truck you see and are impressed by the paint, has been sanded and buffed.
June 4, 2005Here is the thing you have to ask yourself, what environment are you painting in? A tent? a garage? your drive way? Or a paint booth?
Reason why you get more orange peal is temperature & clearcoat hardeners curing rate and last but not least painting style and gun adjustments.
I use a combination of slow and fast hardeners and since I have a make shift spray booth that I use at home for all my projects I have to assume you all are spraying in simular conditions.
If you are, then here is what will guarenty reduced orange peal, you must not spray your clearcoats in temps above 68 using fast hardener use slow and use fast in temps below 65 and learn to mix the 2 to conform to the airs immediate conditions. I tend to be up against changing temperatures and find that colder temperatures work to my advantage but I have to predetermine that cold temperature.
I will use both slow and fast hardener and mix them both in my formula depending on the temp I'm spraying in at the time. It's a feel and a hunch, I always spray my project towards the end of the day and when the temperatures are dropping & will try to spray my last coat of clear. I try to make sure to calculate just when the sun goes down where the temperature outside drops suddenly below 65 degrees and shoot my last coat of clear using a mixture of 65%fast hardener and 35% slow and the cold of the air makes the last clearcoat flow like glass but tacks up in good time even during the night. And I'm spraying outside in an enclosed tent, imagine that! Another think I find myself using is a touch up gun with a 1.0 tip for small parts at full wide open throttle but not high air pressure at the tip and I can spray in confidence without runs at all, it may take a couple of extra coats because the material rate is less then using a 1.4 tip but again at full wide open throttle I get great results.
The finish is so nice that I only sand if I get a run which is rare but mostly for any debre that might have gotten on the surface.
Use a paint spray suit so that lint does not get into your paint, spray water within a 10 feet circumference around your paint project to keep dust down, don't spray when it's windy and don't spray your paints when it's over 80 degress outside.
A expensive gun is not the answer (But it dosen't hurt either), I had stopped painting in 92 and started again when I joined FTW back in 2002 and when I bought my Ford Expedition I had stumbled upon an bought at, get this! "Pic & Save" a HVLP ( High volume, low pressure) spray gun for $50 I was pretty excited and started spraying stuff of my own. At the time my garage that had once been exclusivly been used as my personal bodyshop from 1980-1992 went from a full fuctional bodyshop operation, to what would look as a normal persons junky looking garage where you store all your junk, and since then all my materials, paints, and my 2 binks spray guns were all old and out of date. So this "CHEAP" spray gun was to ME a new toy, I did however had to buy another compressor to run at 110v because my old 220v was rusted and was looking pretty bad since i've had it around the last 23 years. Well since I started painting again, some members at a few of the "TEN" sites got wind of what I do, and since them my garage had somehow turned a full 90 degrees and now it's back full circle into a full functional shop again. That Cheap $50 gun has turned my ride into what it is today but since have bought 6 other guns for my work todate. That $50 gun is now my primer gun and I have 6 other guns dedicated to a separate operation, 1 that is a 2 oz touch up gun with a 1.0 tip and a quart gun with a 1.4 tip used for solid colors only, another 2 others for metallics only and yet 2 others for clearcoats only. Why, I have my reasons as only a painter would know why I have this many guns. So 7 in total.
So, in my opinion it's not the gun that determines a good finish "But it helps" it's a painters experiance to understand his surrounding conditions and the components he's using. Calculating all the variables and adjusting to them approaching the project accordingly.
In a spray booth it is more accurate to determine temperature because of it's covered condition and it's in a building which keeps it pretty cool all the time. In the high heat of summer you must adjust your hardener mixture according to the temperature all around, because hot air is everywhere, you can't escape it. I don't live by any rules to adjusting my gun, I go by feel & by hearing the air come out the gun and how wide I want the spray pattern to fan out the paint, then and I go for it!
Steve Tolentino (Stevet)
No Theft U.S.A.
June 4, 2005has alot to do with the tip on the paint gun,
the paint mix,
the air/paint ratio
distance gun held from job
all things that take time to learn
June 5, 2005Sinces most of the majority of painters buy a 1.4 gun tip and is part of their paint gun arsenal, what does the tip have anything to do with it?
Most common are, 1.0, 1.4, 1.7, 2.0 so what's your idea of the better tip just to spray clearcoat and why?
June 5, 2005You said you had i different gun for spraying metallic paints, what tip does that gun have on it?
June 5, 2005I have a 1.0 and 1.4 for all the OEM colors I shoot, I don't use anything else because I don't get requests for flakes ect... or any bigger metallic particles then what you buy from your local paint jobber for OEM formulas.
1.7's and 2.0 I suppose are being used for heavier primers as I am not using epoxy catalized primers right now, I'm still using lacquar based primers which I have been used to all of my painting life. Soon I'm sure it will be totally banned and I will have to complie, I would now but I hate the fact that it will be more expensive and that I would eventually have some waste as it has a pot life of maybe a hour or so before it kick an hardens up. I don't like that, as for lacquar I can use every bit of it and it dries quickly and the pot life is practically forever as long as you mix it up occasionally.